::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Overview

Step 1 - Design & Prep
Step 1b - Preparing Organics

Step 2 - Anchoring

Step 3 - Sealing

Step 4 - Conductive Painting

Step 5 - Electroforming
Step 5b - Clean Up

Step 6 - Polishing, Patinas & Finishes

Step 7 - Preventing Oxidation

Troubleshooting & FAQs
About the Electroforming Artists/Authors
Health & Safety Information

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
(A printed version of this tutorial booklet is now available on Amazon!)

See us making an Acorn using all these steps using our Enchanted Leaves Electroforming Starter Kit in our YouTube kit walk through video!

Tutorial content, graphics, and photographs by Nedda Angelina & Mike Smith.
Replication and distribution without permission is prohibited.
Copyright © 2026 Enchanted Leaves & MicroDean Systems.

Be sure to join our Electroforming Support Community on Discord, Reddit, & Facebook, and our Electroforming Mailing List to get updates on our tutorial and other electroforming resources. If you like and appreciate the free information and one-on-one help we've included here, please consider donating for further research and development. Any amount is appreciated. Donate via: PayPal, Venmo(@EnchantedLeaves)

If you like and appreciate the free information and one-on-one help we've included here, please consider donating for further research and development. Any amount is appreciated. Donate via: PayPal, Venmo(@EnchantedLeaves)

:: Step 1b - Preparing Organics::

Suggested materials needed in this step: 

• Books for pressing leaves
• Iron or flat iron with parchment paper
• Vegetable glycerin
• Silica sand
• Container
• Oven
• Baking soda or lye

Fully dry or preserve any organic material to be used in the design. This will prevent the object from wilting and deforming the original shape and details during the prep stages, and also prevents inner rotting of the finished design.

For fresh fleshy organic items that cannot be dried or preserved without destroying their shape (such as strawberries, mushrooms, pumpkins, etc), they must be desiccated from the inside after a thick layer of copper has been electroformed over their original shape. See Step 6 - Polishing, Patinas & Finishes for more details.

Press Dry
The simplest way to dry multiple batches of leaves is to press dry them in a book. Tie a strap or belt around the book to tighten down the pages, or add something heavy on top of the book to add weighted pressure. Typically the leaves should be fully dried after a week, but depending on the size and thickness of the leaf, they may require extended time. Note that flat pressed dried leaves may partially regain some of their original natural 3-dimensional aesthetic again once they are exposed to moisture again during Step 3 - Sealing and Step 4 - Conductive Painting.

Iron Dry
An iron or flat iron on a low temperature setting can help speed up the drying process. Arrange the leaves in between two sheets of parchment paper before ironing to prevent burning. This will flatten their appearance, similarly to press drying in a book.

Silica Sand
Use silica sand/gel to preserve and retain the shape of fresh leaves and flowers. Wearing gloves and a dust mask, line the bottom of a container with silica sand and lay down the items to be preserved. Layer more silica sand over until completely covered. Close the lid or cover tightly with plastic wrap. The process can finish in about 3 days to a few weeks, depending on the size of the item. Wearing gloves and a dust mask, gently remove the items from the silica sand, and dust off as necessary. Gently handle them, as they will now be very fragile and brittle. Store the items in an airtight plastic bag or container until they are needed. The silica sand is reusable.

Vegetable Glycerin
To soften and preserve organic materials that need to be flexible for the design, submerge the item in a container with a 1:1 ratio of vegetable glycerine and warm water. Close the lid on the container of vegetable glycerin mixture for a few days to a week, periodically check the process until the leaves are soft, pliable, and no longer fragile. Rinse well and pat dry. Store the items in an airtight plastic bag until they are needed. The tannins in the organics will discolor the glycerin liquid, but it still can be reused again and again. This technique is ideal for leaves that are mature and sturdier. Thinner, delicate leaves (new spring buds) should be avoided, as they will likely be too limp and fail to hold their shape.

Oven Bake
Fresh acorns, pinecones, wood, etc, can be baked to remove their moisture. Arrange  items on a flat pan or baking sheet, ensuring they are evenly spaced and not overcrowded to allow airflow around each item. Bake them at a low temperature (175°F - 200°F, or 77°C - 93°C) for 4 - 8 hours, or until all moisture has evaporated. This will vary depending on size and moisture content of the item.

Acorns may crack in the oven if the moisture is high and the temperature is too high. Glue acorn caps on after drying, as they can easily detach during subsequent stages.

Skeletonizing Leaves
To create a lacy or delicate filigree look to leaves, boil them in baking soda to remove the fleshy pulp and reveal the skeleton vein structure. It is best to do this process when the leaves are picked fresh.

• Bake ¾ of a cup of baking soda at 300 degrees for about a half hour (this turns it into washing soda/sodium carbonate)
  
• Boil 2 cups of water, add the washing soda, stir
  
• Bring down to a simmer and add the leaves. Let them simmer for about an hour and a half, adding any extra water as needed
  
• Strain and gently rinse with water
  
• Next, use a paint brush or toothbrush and clean water to gently remove the pulp of the leaf, revealing the veins. This may need to be done on both sides, depending on the type of leaf
  
• Blot with a paper towel and flatten in a book to fully dry, or soften and preserve using the vegetable glycerin technique outlined in this chapter
  
• For more robust leaf types and faster processing times, use 2 cups of water with 1 tablespoon lye/caustic soda/sodium hydroxide in place of the baking soda/washing soda/sodium carbonate.
  

If time isn’t a concern, simmer the leaves for ~10 hours in the preferred choice of mixture from either recipe listed above. After rinsing, soak in a container of water for a week. This result will give the appearance of a more naturally decayed leaf.

When applying sealant and conductive paint layers to the skeleton leaf, paint it directly on a flat surface, periodically lift up the leaf while painting, and blot with a brush to retain the lacy appearance; otherwise the paint will pool inside the skeleton veins.

 ↑ Top

:: Step 2 - Anchoring ::

Suggested materials in this step:

• Choice of glue: E6000, Super Glue, UV Resin
• Jump rings, wire or another creative form to make an anchor
• Pliers to manipulate the jump ring 
• Spring clips or alligator clips to prop the design up while drying
• Apoxie sculpt or polymer clay (optional)

Once the design is established, there may be a need to adhere an anchor to the object as an attachment point for the suspension wire. The anchor is usually a loop or ring finding that is incorporated into the design, or it can be a temporary attachment, such as wire, that is later clipped off.

Anchors may not be needed if the design already has a hole, is a ring, or if the suspension wire is to be incorporated in the design.

Anchor Types
Jump rings, formed wire, an existing charm/pendant that has a loop on it, a fold over bail, or sculpted clay are just a few examples of different anchors that are commonly used. Get creative by incorporating other objects as a connection to attach to the design.

Copper will build up on every conductive surface, so factor this into the inner size of anchors, especially if they are to remain part of the final design after electroforming. For example, if using a jump ring with a small diameter, the resulting copper buildup of the electroformed design will make the opening or inner diameter of the ring significantly smaller. 

Similarly, this concept will affect the sizing of rings made to be worn on fingers, after they are electroformed. Artists generally design rings ½ to 1 size larger than the intended final size, which will vary depending on the amount of hours spent being electroformed.

Glue
E6000 is a multipurpose solvent glue commonly used for jewelry design and countless shop projects. It will begin to set in about 2 minutes after being exposed to oxygen and has a working time of about 10 minutes.

Super glue (gel or regular) works well to adhere the anchor to the design. To accelerate the setting time, sprinkle a little bit of baking soda over the super glue or use a commercial accelerant. Rinse off any baking soda residue, as it will react with/neutralize the electroforming solution’s chemistry.

UV resin glue is a great way to quickly attach anchors or design elements to the design. The glue is activated by a UV (ultraviolet) light and will set in seconds. Bondic and J-B Weld make convenient glue pens that have a precision application tip with a UV light attached to the other end. 

Allow for glue to cure a few hours, or overnight, before continuing to the sealant and/or conductive painting stage. Always be in a well-ventilated area when using any type of glue.

Building Mass (optional)
The electroforming process will build up a mass of copper on its own, however, some artists wish to create  varied sculptural levels in their designs. This can be done by using Apoxie Sculpt (a two-part, air-drying mixture) or a polymer clay (which requires baking at a low temperature).

It is important to note: Sculptural mass that is preemptively created before electroforming is not a replacement for the necessary structural strength and stability that comes from the thick copper layer built up over prolonged hours in the electroforming tank.

Use fine grit sandpaper to gently smooth out any fingerprints or uneven texture on the hardened clay designs, or acetone on a cotton swab, for unbaked polymer clays prior to baking.

If you like and appreciate the free information and one-on-one help we've included here, please consider donating for further research and development. Any amount is appreciated. Donate via: PayPal, Venmo(@EnchantedLeaves)

:: Step 3 - Sealing ::

Suggested materials in this step:

• A sealant or resist:
  • Polyurethane Lacquer/Varnish/Nail Polish
  • Liquid Latex/Masking Fluid
  • Epoxy Resin
• Small spring clips and/or alligator clips
• Paint brush
• Small cup of water or appropriate solvent
• Wire, or large paper clips - turned into an “s” hook shape
• Drying rack 
• A tray, mat or plastic sheeting to protect the workspace

When a Sealant is Needed
A sealant is intended both to protect the cathode from the solution’s acid and to protect the solution's chemistry from contamination by the cathode's materials. Properly sealing will make the surface waterproof, which helps to prevent contaminating the chemistry.

Organics
Designs that feature anything using organic material such as but not limited to: leaves, flowers, pinecones, acorns, feathers, paper, honeycombs, cotton or natural fabric, bone, insects, seeds, shell, wood, food (produce and processed), etc. must be properly and fully sealed with multiple coats in order to ensure no contact with the solution, which could destroy the solution’s chemistry due to dissolution of foreign matter. 

Porous Objects & 3D Printed Plastics
Materials such as wood, bone, shells, clay, soft gemstones, etc, are porous and must be sealed with multiple layers. Poorly sealed areas on a design using porous materials can become completely dissolved by bare exposure to the electroforming solution. Sealing is also an important step for porous 3D prints such as FDM. Though most plastics from printers are resistant to the solution’s chemistry, the layers in FDM prints are often not hermetically sealed and the solution can wick into the print. This can cause issues weeks or even months after electroforming due to the trapped acid.

Metals
Metals like aluminum, zinc, steel, and iron must be sealed to prevent contamination of the copper electroforming chemistry. Silver, gold, and brass are safe without sealant if copper electroforming over them is planned. If the metal type is unknown, fully seal the surface as a precaution.

Gemstones
A sealant or resist is essential for protecting gemstones and minerals during electroforming. All materials below a Mohs hardness of 7 must be sealed to prevent dissolution in the electroforming solution. Even materials at or above 7 (like quartz) should be sealed to safeguard the piece and avoid contamination of the solution’s chemistry. Conductive minerals (for example, hematite, pyrite, titanium-flash finishes) also require a sealant to prevent complete copper coverage. Find an extensive list of gemstones and minerals and their Mohs hardness scale at Geology.com  

  Sealant Types
Water Based Polyurethane
Generally the most common and versatile sealant. Polyurethane is easily brushed or sprayed on. If thinning is needed, use distilled water. When fully cured, it is resistant to the solution’s chemistry.

Lacquer/Varnish/Nail Polish
These sealants dry much faster but use volatile solvents and can be more difficult to work with. The solvents can more easily damage some substrates like plastics. Only use these sealants if using a water or alcohol based conductive paint- not an acetone based paint. Sealants can be thinned down with the appropriate solvent as needed for better application.

Epoxy Resins
This is the most difficult, costly, and uncommon sealant to work with but can be advantageous in some very special circumstances. For example, it is ideal for objects that cannot be exposed to water and have deep recesses like pinecones. Since epoxy chemically cures; there is a time limit to work with it and any excess cannot be saved for future use.

Resists
A resist is used to temporarily mask out selective parts of the design, making those areas non-conductive so that those selections will be blocked from copper deposits when electroformed. Resists can work similarly to sealants. The main difference is that the goal of a sealant is to make the material completely waterproof as protection from the solution’s chemistry, and the resist is meant to block conductivity. Technically any sealant can also be a resist, as long as it is able to be removed after electroforming. Liquid latex or masking fluid are common temporary types of resists.

Liquid Latex/Masking Fluid
Liquid latex or artist masking frisket fluid can be used as a temporary/removable sealant or mask for selective designed areas. The quick drying fluid is viscous and can be used to block out drawn on patterns or shapes that will not receive copper deposits on your design. The latex peels off cleanly after the electroforming stage is complete. It is important not to use liquid latex alone as a selective area sealant. In order to reduce the risk of solution leaking through a small missed area, latex should be used in conjunction with another form of sealant underneath.

Application Methods

Paint Brush
When painting with a brush, make thin and even strokes, keeping in mind that any texture may show up in the finished electroformed surface. Lightly thin if necessary by periodically dipping the brush in the appropriate solvent between dipping in the sealant. Use small spring clamps or alligator clips as a “third hand” to help hold up the design while painting.

Aerosols
When using a spray sealant, hold the design upright with alligator clips or spring clamps and spray from about 9 to 12 inches away to ensure an even coat. Work in a well-ventilated area that is free from dust and wind.

Wear a safety mask, protective eyewear, and work away from children and pets.

Dipping
For the dipping method, hook an “s” shaped wire or an opened paper clip to the loop of the design and use the other end as a handle to dip the design directly into the container of sealant. Hang it on a drying rack and catch any excess sealant that builds up at the bottom or edges of the design.

Resist Application
The consistency of liquid latex tends to be runny at first, so start by creating a border using a toothpick or thin sculpting tool around the perimeter, allow it to dry, and fill it in with more latex using a sacrificial paintbrush. This border will hold the filled in latex from running over to the rest of the design. To prevent a gap during electroforming, first apply conductive paint with a slight overlap where the latex resist will be. The latex stops copper electroforming in protected areas. Excess conductive paint can be removed after peeling off the latex after the electroforming stage is completed.

Drying
Allow the applied sealant to fully dry before applying any additional coats.
Use wire or an opened paper clip to hook the piece to hang dry on a rack. Jewelry or merchandise displays work great as a drying rack. Have a tray, mat, or a protective sheeting under the drying rack to catch any excess sealant drippings.

It is important to let the sealant not just completely dry, but to fully cure before moving on to the next stage.

Approximately 6 - 24 hours is recommended, depending on the brand or type of sealant, the size of the design, and how many coats have been applied.

Without a full cure time, applying conductive paint over a layer of sealant that isn’t fully cured will result in an unwanted surface texture of large cracks, or many small bubbles or bumps.

 ↑ Top

If you like and appreciate the free information and one-on-one help we've included here, please consider donating for further research and development. Any amount is appreciated. Donate via: PayPal, Venmo(@EnchantedLeaves)

:: Step 4 - Conductive Painting ::

Suggested materials in this step:

• Enchanted Leaves Conductive paint
• Distilled water
• Small spring clips and/or alligator clips
• Gloves
• Paint brush
• Paper towel for blotting excess paint from the brush
• Wire, or opened large paper clips (turned into an “s” hook shape)
• Drying rack 
• A tray, mat, or plastic sheeting to protect the workspace from drips
• Wide mouth jar with an airtight plastic lid (optional, for creating a dipping container that is separate from the original paint)

This last prep stage is to make the design conductive by coating it with conductive paint. The application of conductive paint creates the electrical pathway required for the deposition of copper on the surface of the design. Before beginning the paint application, it is important to ensure that the design is completely dry and perfectly clean from oils, dust and debris. This will ensure maximum adhesion of the conductive paint and an uninterrupted flow of electricity during the electroforming stage. Any trace of contaminants will disrupt the conductive path and lead to an uneven or failed copper deposition.

It is highly recommended to wear gloves while handling the piece before, during and after the conductive prep stages. Fingerprints and skin oils will cause poor paint adhesion and inconsistent copper deposition.

Paint Types
There are several kinds of conductive paint types, found with different types of bases and corresponding solvents:

Graphite: Water, Acetone, or Alcohol Bases
Copper: Water Base
Silver: Water or Acetone Bases
Nickel: Acetone Base

It is important to correctly identify the type so that the appropriate type of solvent is selected, and to know if the type of base material or sealant is not compatible with the paint type. For example, acetone based paints cannot be used over certain types of plastic, nail polish sealants, or on designs with super glue or uv resin glue. Work in a well-ventilated area, protect your workspace, clothing, and wear gloves during the conductive paint stage. 

Because conductive particles are typically heavier than the solvent and binders, they will settle and separate quickly in the bottom of the jar when the paint is not being used. To guarantee the paint remains conductive for all new projects, make sure to thoroughly and gently stir from the bottom of the jar until the paint is completely smooth before each use. 

If the paint jar begins to dry out, or the consistency is too thick, add a thin layer of the paint’s appropriate solvent (distilled water for water based, 90%+ isopropyl alcohol for alcohol base, acetone for acetone base). It is also important to NOT OVER DILUTE the paint! Over-thinning can destroy the paint’s conductivity. Retain any foam paint lid liners for storing your paint when not in use. Always keep the conductive paint closed when not in use.

Non-Paint Types (Carbon/Graphite)
Graphite can be applied as a conductive surface coating through several non-paint methods, though adhesion is often a drawback. One option is a dry graphite aerosol spray, available as a lubricant in most hardware stores. Achieving an even, electrically conductive surface with this method typically requires multiple coats.

Alternatively, direct application is possible by physically working graphite into the object's surface. This involves manually rubbing/burnishing or tumbling the part with graphite powder. This technique is more effective on relatively soft materials such as most plastics. For more details on manual application, see Burnishing below for more information.

Application Methods

Brush
Apply the conductive paint in thin, even strokes, remembering that any brush strokes or texture will be reflected in the final electroformed surface. Copper will form only where the paint is applied, whether that covers the entire piece or just a portion. If painting only part of the object, ensure all conductive areas connect to form a path for the electric current to flow.

To avoid handling the design directly while painting, use aids like small spring clamps and alligator clips to help hold the item steady.

If a thinner conductive paint is needed, avoid thinning the entire original jar. Instead, use a separate container to thin a portion until the desired consistency is achieved. Alternatively, maintain a separate container of the correct solvent and lightly thin the paint as you work by occasionally dipping the brush into the solvent before dipping it into the conductive paint. 

For slick or smooth materials like glass, water based paint may initially repel or bead. To fix this, first apply a matte sealant that creates "tooth," or a surface for better adhesion. Alternatively, lightly buffing the surface with wet, fine-grit sandpaper will help resolve this issue.

Dipping
To prepare for dipping, pour the required amount of paint into a wide-mouthed, airtight container. Dilute the paint lightly with the correct solvent: distilled water for water based paints, 90%+ isopropyl alcohol for alcohol based paints, or acetone for acetone based paints.

Attach a wire or opened s-shaped paper clip to the design's anchor/loop, then submerge the piece directly into the container. Dip as many times as needed, using a brush or other tool to ensure the paint covers all crevices. Hang the piece on a drying rack, making sure to wipe away any excess paint that accumulates at the edges or on the bottom.

Airbrush
When using conductive paint in an airbrush, hold the design upright on alligator clips and spray from about 4 to 8 inches away to ensure an even coat. Work in an area that is free from dust and wind, preferably in an enclosed spray booth.
Always wear a safety mask, protective eyewear, and work far away from children and pets.

Burnishing
Rubbing the surface of the paint (especially graphite based paints) with something soft like microfiber or a toothbrush will increase conductive particle intimacy and therefore decrease electrical resistance. This has the advantage of making the initial deposit of copper occur faster. The major drawback is the slick coating generated on the surface of the paint after burnishing. Copper will be attracted to it and build up on the surface, but it will not adhere as well as a raw painted surface. Conductive paints contain not only conductive particles and solvents, but also binders. These binders help the paint adhere to the object, and the copper to the paint. For maximum adhesion, buffing/burnishing the conductive paint is not recommended.

Drying and Additional Coats
Apply two to three thin, layered coats of conductive paint for sufficient conductivity in your design. Allow the applied paint to dry at least 20 to 25 minutes, depending on the paint type, before applying any additional coats. Check your paint type’s instructions.

This drying period is essential for allowing the solvents in the paint to fully evaporate. Applying a second coat of paint before the initial layer has completely cured or dried will result in major defects. Solvents trapped in the wet undercoat will try to escape through the new layer, causing bubbles or blisters. This rapid, uneven curing process, accelerated by the trapped solvents, creates stress fractures and a brittle, cracked surface. These defects can break the continuity of the conductive path, ultimately lowering the quality of the final electroformed object. 

After the final paint layer is applied, allow a minimum of a few hours of drying, curing, and degassing time before beginning the electroforming step.

 

  ↑ Top

If you like and appreciate the free information and one-on-one help we've included here, please consider donating for further research and development. Any amount is appreciated. Donate via: PayPal, Venmo(@EnchantedLeaves)

:: Step 5 - Electroforming ::

Suggested materials in this step:

• DC Power supply: Cu MiniForm or bench
• Test lead wires (if not already included with power supply)
• 1000 mL Enchanted Leaves Copper Electroforming Solution
• 1000 mL beaker
• 8 or 10 gauge clean, bare copper wire
• 26 gauge conductive wire
• Suspension/busbar
• Wire cutters 
• Needle nose pliers
• 2 spring clips
• Lipped tray
• Safety glasses
• Gloves
• Distilled water

This stage involves submerging the prepared design (now known as the cathode) and a copper anode in a copper electrolyte solution to form an electrical circuit to slowly deposit copper onto the conductive painted areas of the cathode.

See our YouTube Channel for a complete walk-through on putting together an electroforming set up using the complete Enchanted Leaves Electroforming Starter Kit including the Cu MiniForm XL Power Supply: YouTube.com/@CuElectroforming

Workspace Set Up
Set up a station in a well-ventilated, flat workspace that is at least 65° F.
Select a location that is far out of reach of pets and children.

• Set the cleaned beaker inside a lipped tray.
  
• Using a 2:1 anode to cathode ratio amount (see the notes on consistency for measuring instructions), place the anode inside the beaker with the top end sticking out over the edge of the lip.
  
• Wearing safety glasses, carefully pour the copper electroforming solution into the beaker.
  
• Keep track of evaporation by marking a line on the outside of the beaker where the liquid goes up to (1000 mL).

Prepare the Cathode
Remember to always wear gloves when handling the painted cathode. Oils from the skin can create resistive spots on the conductive paint, which would prevent a copper electroformed buildup in those areas.

Next, create a means of suspending the cathode into the beaker:

• Loop a thin gauge (24 AWG or thinner) bare copper wire around the suspension bar. Use thin gauge wire, as thicker gauges can “rob” or draw current away from the cathode. Only use copper wire that is bare, as any with anti-tarnishing agents (such as craft wire) will prevent current from flowing to the cathode.
  
  
• Cut the suspension wire so that it is long enough to be completely submerged in the solution without touching the bottom of the beaker. Use pliers to form a hooked loop at the end of the wire, securing it to the cathode.
  
  
• Anticipate that any lightweight items such as plastic, wood or other organic material will be buoyant in the solution. To prevent your design from floating, you may need to add weight. Initially, use a glass anchor and a short piece of plastic thread. This combination is ideal because both materials are non-conductive and will not interfere with copper deposition. Attach one end of a short plastic thread to the suspension wire's hook and the other to the glass anchor. Use this temporary method until enough copper has built up on the cathode to provide sufficient independent weight.
  
  

Connect the Power Supply
In this step, direct current is applied via a power supply (aka “rectifier”), which facilitates the formation of copper deposits. To ensure the circuit operates without connection problems throughout the electroforming process, it is important to maintain clean components and connections, keeping them free of corrosion.

 

If using the Cu MiniForm power supply, follow these instructions:

• Plug in the Cu MiniForm’s included USB wall adapter, then plug the USB cable into the wall adapter and Cu MiniForm. 
  
  
• Plug in the lead wires to the Cu MiniForm power supply.
  
  
• Attach the red lead wire clip to the end of the copper anode that is slightly sticking out of the beaker, and the black lead wire clip to the top of the cathode suspension wire that is wrapped on the suspension bar. Do not let the clips directly touch the liquid solution.
  
  
• Submerge the suspended cathode into the solution, so that it is evenly placed in the center of the beaker and not touching the anode. If needed, use two spring clamps on the suspension bar, wedging them against each side of the beaker. This will help keep the bar in place. Do not let the anode and the cathode or the suspension wire touch.
  
  
• Using the + / - buttons, bring the number on the screen to the calculated amps per square inch of surface area to electroform. (Calculated in Step 1 - Design & Prep: 0.1 amps per square inch of surface area).
  
  
• Tap the center play/pause button to start applying power. The lightning bolt icon will illuminate. Make note of the starting time.
  

If using a bench power supply, follow these instructions:

• Plug in the lead wires to the bench power supply, and turn the amperage knob all the way counter-clockwise/to the left (off) and volt knob all the way clockwise/to the right (on).
  
  
• Attach the red lead wire clip to the end of the copper anode that is slightly sticking out of the beaker, and the black lead wire clip to the top of the cathode suspension wire that is wrapped on the suspension bar. Do not let the clips directly touch the liquid solution.
  
  
• Switch on the power supply and make sure the numbers are all set to 0 (amp knob counter-clockwise, volt knob clockwise).
  
  
• Submerge the suspended cathode into the solution, so that it is evenly placed in the center of the beaker and not touching the anode. If needed, use two spring clamps on the suspension bar, wedging them against each side of the beaker. This will help keep the bar in place.
  
  
• Slowly turn the amperage knob clockwise until the numbers begin to move up to the calculated amps per square inch of surface area to electroform. (Calculated in Step 1 - Design & Prep - 0.1 amps per sq inch of surface area).
  Depending on paint and solution conductivity, surface area of the cathode, and other factors, it may be necessary to start at a lower than calculated amperage until some copper has been deposited on the cathode. This will prevent over-deposition of copper and electrolysis (bubbling) of the solution’s chemistry. The current can be slowly increased to the calculated setpoint over the course of minutes to hours depending on the aforementioned factors.
  
  Generally, the percentage of the calculated amperage setpoint should track the percentage of copper coverage on the cathode (50% copper coverage = 50% of the calculated amperage, 100% copper coverage = 100% of the calculated amperage).
  
  If using the Cu MiniForm power supply, no action is needed, as the miliRamp feature performs this step automatically.
  
  
• Make note of the starting time
  
  

Wait and Monitor
Next, copper will gradually form over the cathode. Depending on the item’s size and the desired thickness of copper buildup, this can take several hours (anywhere from 4 - 24+). It is important to deposit enough copper to build up structural strength and integrity over designs that are delicate. Thin base materials (such as leaves) and designs that have weak spots, glued elements, and anchors that will have to withstand tension need additional electroforming time.

If using a bench power supply, the amperage number will drop while the first layer of copper is covering the surface of the cathode. This is normal, as the total surface area is increasing as the copper spreads over the areas that are conductive. When this happens, slowly increase the amperage knob to keep it at the correct number. If using the Cu MiniForm, no action is needed, as everything will automatically adjust.

Check in about once every hour, making sure that the texture and thickness on the cathode is as planned. For prolonged electroforming/thicker copper deposits, a slight increase of the amperage setting may be needed, as the surface area will increase over time.

The electroforming stage is inherently a slow process governed by physics. Be patient and be sure to check the cathode often to ensure things are progressing as expected. It is advisable for beginners to avoid leaving projects running unattended overnight. Wait until several electroforming projects have been successfully completed and sufficient experience has been gained.

Monitor the dissolution of the anode, ensuring it remains intact throughout the duration of the electroforming process. Replace if needed, before it breaks apart at the thinnest area.

Rinsing Off
After achieving the target copper buildup on the cathode, turn off the power supply and disconnect wires. Remove, and rinse in distilled water. Use tap water only if the cathode won't return to the beaker, as minerals can cause contamination. Always remove the anode from the beaker after use and do not store it in the solution.

 

Important Notes on Consistency: Electroforming Subsequent Piece
Especially when artists are still learning how to electroform, the cathode will sometimes come out of the beaker looking pink/salmon colored, with a dull or matte texture. As described in Step 6 - Polishing, Patinas & Finishes, it can be polished to a shine with a few simple tools such as steel wool, a brass brush, a Dremel tool with a wire wheel attachment, or a rock/jewelry tumbler.

Several variables can contribute to this “salmon” outcome. If the addition of brightener drops in the solution does not improve the finish, then most commonly it is the result of the amperage setting being too low for the surface area (below the target of 0.1 amps per square inch). The estimation of the surface area of the cathode is extremely important, as the deposition of copper ions is dictated by the amperage. Although the anode surface area is less critical, it should always be the goal to have a 2:1 anode-to-cathode ratio. Improper anode-to-cathode ratio will not immediately throw off the solution’s chemistry, but may cause issues long term. To maintain the 2:1 anode-to-cathode surface area ratio within the beaker, adjust the amount of copper anode submerged, relative to the cathode's size.

For example, if using a 10 AWG copper wire coil for the anode (which has 0.33 inches of surface area per inch of wire length)  then use the following formula to calculate the length of anode wire needed: (Area of cathode/.33) x 2, this will help maintain the copper to acid levels in the solution’s chemistry, resulting in a smoother electroformed surface. Failure to do so may eventually result in an imbalance of copper ions in the chemistry, which can cause salmon/matte finish and unwanted texture. This will only occur after long term use at the improper anode:cathode ratio.

If the copper deposit is brittle, textured or glittery in appearance, then solution/chemistry maintenance may need to be performed, which can be found later in the Troubleshooting/FAQs section in this tutorial.

Having the amperage too high will “burn” the cathode, causing it to be either a deep red or brown. Always start at the calculated amps per square inch measurement per project (0.1 amps per square inch). 

Specifically for the Enchanted Leaves pre-mixed electroforming solution: If the copper deposit is shiny, but is starting to grow dendrites, the most common cause is that the amperage is too high. Try lowering the current by 20% to see if the dendrites stop growing. If the cathode remains shiny but dendrites continue to grow, lower the current again before suspecting contamination. Dendrites caused by contamination are most often caused by physical particulates in the solution’s chemistry or foreign metal ion contamination. Fixes for both can be found in the Troubleshooting/FAQs section in this tutorial.

With each use, the solution’s brighteners will deplete and will need to be replenished. Brighteners help restore shine and achieve a smoother finish, in conjunction to correct amperage, 2:1 anode to cathode ratio, and distilled water levels. Apply 5 drops of the Enchanted Leaves brightener per 1000 mL of electroforming solution as needed. Excess brightener will cause brittle copper deposition and potentially dendrites, so start with 5 drops, and increase only if there are no visible improvements. 

If the solution is passed through a carbon or charcoal filter (activated aquarium carbon or brita filters), all brightener additives will be stripped, and must be re-added before electroforming. Do not use 3rd party DIY brighteners such as PEG (Miralax) with the Enchanted Leaves Copper electroforming solution. These break down quickly in the solution’s chemistry and leave trace materials and cannot be filtered out. Always maintain water levels by periodically topping off the solution with distilled water (not tap, bottled, or filtered).

To troubleshoot connection issues, first inspect the lead wires and any conductive busbar for problems. Corrosion buildup, frequently caused by exposure to or splashes of the electroforming solution, can quickly degrade the lead wire clips. Failure to maintain cleanliness will inevitably lead to connection problems. These issues can result in poor quality copper deposits on the cathode or may even halt the electroforming process entirely. If connection issues persist, verify that the suspension wire and the cathode are not in contact with the anode.

To ensure even copper coverage during electroforming, check the cathode for trapped air when submerging it in the tank. Gently jiggle the submerged cathode wire to release trapped air bubbles, as copper won't deposit underneath them, causing bare spots. If bare patches appear, immediately remove and rinse the cathode with distilled water. Then, dry it completely, either by patting it or using low heat. Next, apply conductive paint to the bare spots and allow it to dry completely before re-submerging the cathode into the solution.

  ↑ Top

If you like and appreciate the free information and one-on-one help we've included here, please consider donating for further research and development. Any amount is appreciated. Donate via: PayPal, Venmo(@EnchantedLeaves)

:: Step 5b - Clean Up ::

Suggested materials in this step:

• Funnel
• Filters
• Scouring pad
• Safety glasses
• Shop or paper towel
• Distilled water
• Baking soda

If the electroforming projects have concluded for that day, filter and store the solution back into the bottle to prevent excessive evaporation and deterioration of the copper anode. Never store the anode inside the beaker of solution.

Keep the lead wire clips, power supply, and all equipment away from open beakers of solution, or they will begin to corrode from the proximity to the sulfuric acid in the solution’s chemistry.

Always store the solution and equipment out of the reach of pets and children.

Filter
Place a few layered filters inside the funnel and place it inside the empty electroforming solution bottle. Wearing safety glasses, carefully and slowly pour the solution into the bottle through the filter lined funnel. Repeat if necessary.
Evaporation is normal during electroforming, as monitoring the 1000 mL liquid line marked on the beaker will show. Top off the solution with distilled water when the liquid level is less than when started.

Rinse
Thoroughly rinse out the beaker and anode and fully dry them with a shop towel to ensure there is no residue left from the tap water. To be environmentally responsible, thoroughly dilute any remnants in the beaker down to a clear liquid and neutralize with baking soda before allowing any affected waste water to drain down the sink. Do not allow any baking soda residue to remain in the beaker, as it will neutralize the electroforming solution’s chemistry.

Scrub
Scrub off any residue or corrosion buildup that is on the lead wire clips and other connection points on the anode and busbar. Keeping these clean will ensure a good connection when electroforming. Use a scouring pad to clean off the residue of the anode coil. After thoroughly rinsing, completely dry it off with a paper towel.

An 8 or 10 gauge wire anode coil should last through electroforming several pieces of small/average size. The wire will get thinner during use until it breaks off at the weakest point. Simply replace your depleted anode with more bare copper wire, found online or at any hardware store. Bare copper sheets or phosphorized copper pipes may also be used for an anode. If using a copper pipe as the anode, do not clean the black film that will form over the anode. This is a protective film that slows the anode’s dissolution rate. Store the copper pipe anodes in a container with distilled water when not in use.

Sealant/Masking Removal
After the cathode has been electroformed, certain protective sealants or masking applied in the prep stages may need to be removed. If a clear sealant was used, it is definitely not necessary to remove the protective layer; however some designers choose to if it doesn’t work for them aesthetically.

If water based polyurethane sealant was applied, use a toothpick or any tool to gently scrape a spot of the lacquered area to create a break in the seal to lift and peel it off. Soak it in hot water to help to soften the lacquer if necessary.

Liquid latex as a removable mask will easily peel off. Gently clean off any remaining conductive paint visible underneath the latex with warm soapy water if a water based paint was used, otherwise remove any excess paint using the appropriate solvent of the paint base.

Use acetone or nail polish remover to dissolve any nail polish sealant. If there is concern of damaging the original surface material  (such as certain gemstones) use an acetone-free nail polish remover.   

 ↑ Top

If you like and appreciate the free information and one-on-one help we've included here, please consider donating for further research and development. Any amount is appreciated. Donate via: PayPal, Venmo(@EnchantedLeaves)

:: Step 6 - Polishing, Patinas & Finishes ::

Suggested materials in this step:

• Choice of polishing tool:
• Scouring pad
• Brass brush
• Dremel tool with a wire brush wheel
• Steel wool
• Tumbler with polishing medium
• Choice of patina agent:
• Liver of Sulfur/potassium sulfide & hot water & baking soda
• Selenium dioxide solution
• Blue/Green patina solution
• Butane torch
• Hard boiled egg & a plastic bag
• Alcohol ink or other color dye solution
• Choice of sealant (optional)
• Face mask
• Safety glasses
• Gloves
• Shop towels

If the finished electroformed piece has a dull, matte, or "salmon" pink copper surface deposit, several methods can be used to polish and achieve a shine, provided the initial copper deposits are not brittle.

Polishing Methods
A Dremel tool with a wire brush wheel attachment is one of the most efficient methods to get the design to a high, smooth shine. Use protection from flyaway wires by always wearing safety glasses, or building a Dremel enclosure (also called a lemel trap). This enclosure is a clear receptacle to contain an object while being worked on that shields, traps and protects the user from grinding dust or flyaway wire bristles. It has two openings on each side for hands to go through. To flatten and smooth down coarser texture on copper, use a Dremel tool with a silicon carbide grinding stone attachment. 

A tumbler (rock polisher) with a polishing medium can also be used for polishing large batches of items at once. Use water and a drop of dish soap or burnishing liquid for tumblers as a lubricant when tumbling. 

A scouring pad, a brass or steel brush, or steel wool are commonly used tools for manual polishing. These methods work well when the amount of polishing needed is mild, or only required in specific areas.

If the copper layer is peeling or flaking off during polishing, it is an indication that the cathode did not develop a thick enough layer and needed to continue to electroform longer. Depending on what the base material is, and if the design has weak spots or glued elements that will have to withstand tension (such as a jumpring or anchor), electroforming for 4 - 24+ hours is recommended.

Once polished, the surface will be a shiny copper finish. At this state, it can be preserved, given a patina, or left untreated. To preserve the final desired finish and prevent natural oxidation, seal it with a preferred choice of protective coating, such as lacquer or varnish (as seen in Step 7 - Preventing Oxidation). If left uncoated, the copper may be periodically cleaned or polished when tarnishing occurs.

:: Troubleshooting & FAQs ::

Electroforming definitely has a learning curve and will take some trial, error, tweaking, and a lot of patience! Here are some troubleshooting notes and frequently asked questions and answers that I hope you find to be helpful.

Please also join us on the social help communities that my partner and I created for beginners and experienced electroformers to ask questions and share their work: 
Discord → Our Electroforming Discord Server
Reddit → r/CuElectroformingHelp
Facebook  → Cu Electroforming Help & Support 

 

Why aren't my pieces electroforming?
First check and make sure the anode and cathode are not touching in the beaker. If using a conductive busbar, make sure the anode is not touching it. Next, confirm that the lead wires are correctly set up: The red lead wire (+) clips to the copper anode wire, and the black lead wire (-) clips to the cathode/design. If these are reversed, the design will not form a layer of copper. An easy way to remember is this mantra: “Red to Red (Copper), and Black to Black (Graphite)”, while connecting the red lead wire to the red copper anode, and the black lead wire to the black graphite painted cathode.
If the leads are confirmed to set up correctly, and the cathode is still not electroforming, then the issue might be due to any of the following:

• The conductivity of the design is not high enough, and needs more layers of conductive paint.
  
  
• Your suspension wire has a coating or anti-tarnishing agent on it, as most craft wires found at hobby stores carry. Only use bare copper wire (which is included in the kit). Your anchor or jump ring must also be free of any coating.
  
  
• If corrosion is present on the lead wire clips, anode, suspension wire or busbar, then there will be connection issues, as current will be blocked from flowing to the cathode. Scrub down all the components and try again.
  
  
• Your power supply or lead wires may be faulty. Contact the manufacturer for troubleshooting advice. If using the Cu MiniForm power supply, refer to the troubleshoot manual.
  
  

Why is it taking so long for the copper to cover my conductive paint?
There are several variables that would cause slow initial coverage of copper on your cathode. Different types of conductive paints vary on their conductivity. The higher the conductivity, the faster the initial coverage will be. Too thin or too few coats of applied paint will affect the coverage. Too low of amps per cathode surface area will also impact the deposition rate of the initial copper layer onto your cathode.

Can I use the copper electroforming starter kit to electroform gold or silver?
No, this kit is specifically for copper electroforming only. While the set up and principles are similar, the materials needed for electroplating or electroforming other metals are entirely different. Since silver and gold plating typically use cyanide based solutions, it isn’t quite suitable or safe for a home based business/artists. 

If I turn up the current higher, will it speed up the process?
While it may seem like a faster way to achieve a thicker copper layer, excessive amperage can "burn" the cathode, turning it into a crumbly, deep red or brown. More importantly, high current results in rough, brittle copper with uneven deposition that is often impossible to polish or grind smooth after electroforming. To ensure a thick, high-quality buildup, rely on sufficient time and patience, maintaining a smooth and even deposition rate by setting the current to 0.1 amps per square inch of surface area.

There are lines growing on my piece. What is happening, and how do I stop it?
The appearance of lines on the surface of the cathode is caused by convection (also referred to as “current lines”). This occurs from close proximity to the anode, lack of agitation/aeration in the solution, a lack of brightener, and/or excess buildup of copper ions in the solution’s chemistry.

To achieve an even copper deposition, continuous agitation or aeration of the solution can be used. A magnetic stirrer is a suitable method for agitation, but only for use with phosphorized copper anodes, such as pipe anodes. Do not use a magnetic stirrer with wire anodes as this will result in uneven copper deposits and unwanted textures. Another method that can be used for all anode types is aeration via an air pump/bubbler. Use a small air pump or a fish tank bubbler (without an airstone), placing the tube at the bottom of the beaker. The resulting bubbles provide the necessary stirring action, ensuring even distribution of copper ions. It should be noted however, that aeration can cause small droplets to be suspended in the air, which will subsequently land on surrounding surfaces. This will cause acid, brighteners, and other additives to be depleted over time. Additionally, it can cause corrosion of surrounding materials. Therefore we generally do not recommend aeration.

Whether running agitation or aeration, use an anode bag as a filter (as mentioned earlier in this FAQ) to contain excess copper or "sludge." This prevents the stirring action from disturbing the copper sludge, which could otherwise create an unwanted texture on the surface.

Minimize splashing, as acidic splashes can corrode essential components like the lead wire clips, busbar, and the top of the anode. To prevent splashing, modify the bubbler tube by heat-sealing the end and poking multiple small holes in it, which reduces the size of the bubbles. Another technique is to use a taller beaker, for example, use 1000 mL solution in a 2000 mL tall-form beaker. The increased height with half the volume of liquid used ensures splashes do not reach the surrounding workstation. Cover the beaker with plastic wrap to create a shield. Ensure the anode and cathode suspension wires stick out through the wrap, and then attach the clip lead wires to the outside of the plastic covering.

How do I get that bubbly textured edge on my designs that have a gemstone in the middle? Do I have to turn my amps up high to get it?
The texture on the edges naturally builds up as the copper deposits onto the conductive areas of the design. This occurs when the copper on the surface edges are fully covered with deposits, and can’t spread out anymore, so the copper deposits begin to stack up on itself. The longer the cathode is electroforming in the tank, the larger the build up is.
Turning up the amps too high will not help to achieve this look faster, but may result in burning or unwanted texture on the rest of the surface.
You can add pre-texture underneath the conductive paint, using media such as microbeads(used in scrapbooking and nail art), sand, and other materials.

The conductive paint on my piece is cracking. Why and what can I do?
This can happen if too much paint is applied at once, or if additional coats are applied before the initial layer has dried. Remember that whatever the surface texture is in the painted stage will carry over when the cathode is electroformed. It is important to let the sealant completely dry before applying conductive paint. Anywhere between 6 - 24 hours is recommended, depending on the size of the design, how many coats have been applied, and the type of sealant used. Without a full cure time, the conductive paint that is over a layer of sealant that isn’t fully cured will result in an unwanted surface texture of large cracks, peeling paint or many small bubbles or bumps.

Why is my stone so dark on the inside after I have electroformed?
Since the graphite paint is black, it will darken the light and transparency of any clear or semi transparent objects such as glass, plastic, or transparent crystals/gemstones. When copper electroforms on the design, it deposits on top of the graphite paint, and does not replace it, leaving the darkening effect as seen when the paint was first applied. To avoid the darkness of the conductive graphite paint showing through the finished piece, first put a layer of metallic chrome paint pen, white paint or silver nail polish down on the area before applying the conductive graphite paint layer. This will reflect the light once more and brighten the design. Alternatively, use a copper based conductive paint, or copper foil tape in place of the graphite paint.

My first few pieces came out shiny, but now my pieces are coming out dull/pink/matte/salmon, even though I’m not doing anything differently. Why?
Several variables can contribute to this outcome. If using brightener drops doesn’t improve the finish, then most commonly it is the result of either the amperage setting being too low for the surface area (below the target of 0.1 amps per square inch), or from an excess buildup of copper ions in the solution from too much surface area of anode in ratio to the size of the cathode/design, and low distilled water levels. Using a 2:1 anode to cathode ratio, along with replenishing evaporated distilled water will help to maintain the copper to acid levels in the solution’s chemistry. See the solution/chemistry maintenance section later in this FAQ for more info. Luckily, most dull pink pieces can be polished up with a few simple tools such as steel wool, a brass brush, a Dremel tool with a wire wheel attachment, or a rock/jewelry tumbler. See Step 6 - Polishing, Patinas & Finishes for more info on methods of polishing.

Why can’t I just set my bench power supply by ONLY adjusting the voltage knob? I heard this is an electroforming “hack”. 
Setting a bench power supply to constant voltage can work in very limited respects, but it is inconsistent and generally considered poor practice for more than one reason: 
In the process of electroforming (or more technically, any electrochemical deposition method), the rate at which copper is deposited onto the cathode is directly influenced by the amperage setting, not voltage. This is governed by the laws of physics. For the exchange of every two electrons, one copper ion/atom is reduced at the cathode and one atom/ion is oxidized at the anode. The exchange/migration of electrons is the literal definition of current. Therefore, if you want repeatable, consistent, ideal results across all other variables like temperature, anode:cathode ratio, chemistry, etc., you should use a current based control. By regulating current, you regulate the deposition of copper metal onto the cathode, atomically. Voltage control can technically “work”, but is hit or miss. Only current-based adjustments provide repeatable and consistent results with high-quality, durable deposits. Our preference is to have these repeatable results every single time with no inconsistencies without the need to polish or worry about brittle deposits, so we only use constant current to achieve our results.
The voltage limit knob should be turned to its maximum setting, enabling the full capabilities of the machine. Once this is done, adjustment should only be made to the amperage or current setting for each individual project. A current of 0.1 amps per square inch of the surface area intended for electroforming is recommended.

Can I leave my electroforming project running overnight?
While it is possible to let the electroforming circuit run overnight, it is strongly advised against, especially for beginners that are still learning how fickle this process can be. Close monitoring, ideally on an hourly basis, is recommended to quickly identify and correct any developing issues that can be reversed if caught early. Leaving the piece unattended overnight increases the risk of problems going unnoticed, making troubleshooting difficult the next day. Potential issues include but are not limited to: developing an undesirable texture on the piece, the suspension wire fusing to the cathode, areas of the conductive paint peeling up, uneven or patchy copper deposition, or the anode dissolving in the center, causing the red lead wire's alligator clip to fall into the solution- which will destroy the clip and contaminate the solution’s chemistry with iron.

How do I stop lightweight cathodes from floating?
To prevent floating, use a glass bead as an anchor and a short plastic thread. Both are non-conductive and won't interfere with copper deposition or surface area calculation. Attach the thread from the suspension wire's hook to the glass anchor. Use this temporary anchor until enough copper builds on the cathode to provide sufficient weight.

It’s winter, and I noticed my pieces aren’t electroforming like they do during the warmer season. Do I need a heater?
Temperature is a critical factor in the electroforming process, as it impacts the convection and diffusion of copper ions and additives within the solution's chemistry. For proper copper deposition, the solution temperature should be maintained at or above 65°F (18.3°C) as colder temperatures can lead to deposition problems. It is not recommended to exceed 80°F (26.7°C) due to excessive evaporation. If the temperature is too low, external heating methods should be used to warm the solution. Options include placing the beaker on a low-setting heating pad or a seedling heat mat. An alternative method is to use a "double boiler" setup by placing a submersible fish tank heater in an outer, shallow container of water, and then set the beaker containing the electroforming solution inside this warmed water bath. This method protects the heater from the acidic solution.
We highly discourage placing a heater, pump, or anything that directly plugs into a wall outlet into the solution for safety reasons. Sulfuric acid attacks many plastics and materials over time, especially ones designed for use with water only. Not only will the corrosion of these materials contaminate your solution’s chemistry, but leakage into the device can cause an extremely hazardous and potentially lethal situation. If household high voltage AC is coupled to the conductive solution, it may not trip the household breaker or be visually apparent. In this worst case scenario, touching the solution or anything coupled to it like the anode or cathode will expose you to mains power.
The only electrical current that should be present in the vicinity of the solution should come from a regulated low voltage DC power supply like the Cu MiniForm.

Help! My beaker is full of blue crystals with an oily liquid! Why did this happen, and what can I do?
This will happen when the water in the electroforming solution completely or partially evaporates, or when the temperature of the solution is very low for a prolonged period of time. The blue crystals are copper sulfate, and the oily substance that surrounds them is the sulfuric acid. The copper sulfate will also crystallize on the anode if left unattended in the solution. The presence of these crystals does not normally mean anything is wrong with your solution’s chemistry, and is not an indicator of excess copper. You can revive the electroforming solution to reuse by adding heated distilled water to the tank up to the 1000mL mark to dissolve the copper sulfate crystals. Only use distilled water, as minerals found in bottled, tap, or filtered water can contaminate the solution’s chemistry. Be patient, as the crystals may dissolve slowly. Maintain a warm (but not excessively hot) temperature to encourage dissolution.

How long does the copper electroforming solution last? What can I do to maintain my solution’s chemistry?
The solution can be reused indefinitely if proper maintenance is practiced. Here are some guidelines to follow for solution/chemistry maintenance: 

• Always replenish the water evaporated from the solution by periodically topping it off with distilled water, back to the 1000 mL line. This will help to maintain the copper to acid levels in the solution’s chemistry. Filter the solution between uses or when necessary. Use coffee filters, lab filters, 1 micron polyfelt filter sheets, or an anode bag.
  
  
• With each use, the solution’s brighteners will deplete and will need to be replenished. Apply 5 drops of the Enchanted Leaves brightener per 1000 mL of solution as needed. Excess brightener will cause brittle copper deposition. Use extreme hesitance when using commercial or DIY brighteners. Especially anything labeled as levelers, suppressors or accelerators. We do not recommend using these because they can react with the additives already included in the Enchanted Leaves Copper Electroforming Solution.
  Not all electroforming chemistry is made the same, and mismatched additives can cause more problems than solve. For example, PEG (Miralax) can appear to make a difference short term but long term will destroy the solution’s chemistry of a home setup. Organic dyes like methylene blue or janus green should be used with caution, as there are health concerns and they break down in the chemistry quite rapidly.
  
  
• Avoid contaminating the solution’s chemistry by always sealing organic materials, soft stones (anything under a 7 on the Mohs hardness scale) or porous surfaces, rinsing away any baking soda residue, and avoid using anything with iron, steel, aluminum, zinc and other types of alloys to enter the tank without the proper sealant.
  
  
• If the electroforming solution’s chemistry has become contaminated, pass the solution through a carbon or charcoal filter (activated aquarium carbon or a Brita filter). Note that when using carbon/charcoal filters, all brightener additives will be stripped, and must be re-added before electroforming. If the contamination is due to iron, aluminum, steel, or other unknown metals, electroform with a “dummy” or scrap piece of copper for an extended period of time to draw out the impurities in the chemistry.
  
  
• Over time, the solution’s pH balance may need to be restored by adding more sulfuric acid or distilled water. Adding acid is not a common maintenance procedure with Enchanted Leaves pre-mixed electroforming chemistry, but may need to be performed after long term use. It is not recommended to add acid unless you are confident you need to. The ideal pH reading for the Enchanted Leaves brand electroforming chemistry is between 0.5 - 1.0. Budget digital pH meters and pH test strips are often not accurate in this range of acidity, so they should only be used for comparative analysis, not quantitative. If you suspect you need to add acid, separate out ⅓ of the solution to perform maintenance tests:
  • Low pH reading: This means acid levels are high, and distilled water is needed. Use the ⅓ portion of solution and add distilled water to raise the pH. Perform an electroforming test on a scrap piece of copper before raising the pH of the entire batch of solution.
  • High Ph reading: This means acid levels are low. Use the ⅓ portion of solution and add increments of mL of sulfuric acid (98% concentration) to lower the pH. Perform an electroforming test on a scrap piece of copper before lowering the pH of the entire batch of solution.
    

Why is my electroforming solution cloudy? Should I use an “anode bag”?
As the cathode electroforms, copper "sludge" particles will naturally fall from the copper wire anode. This is expected and will be filtered out between uses. Do not bump, agitate or disturb the solution while the cathode is electroforming. Doing so will cause the sludge to cloud the solution, negatively impacting the texture of the finished design.
To minimize sludge formation, consider using an anode bag or sleeve. This reusable filter, made from 1-micron thick, acid-resistant polyfelt, is placed over the anode in the beaker. It keeps the solution clean while the cathode is electroforming. These bags can be sewn with plastic thread or closed using a glue gun. Using a filter will help to reduce excess buildup of copper ions and achieve smooth copper deposition on the cathode.

Can I electroform more than one item at a time?
Yes, multiple items can be electroformed at once, however, it is strongly recommended that beginners should only electroform one item at a time until they have gained more trial and error experience with this very fickle process. Failure to follow these guidelines will result in uneven and unpredictable results:

• All items/cathodes in a shared tank must be similar in size and shape, due to the parallel circuit inside this tank set up. In a parallel circuit, current will follow the path of least resistance, so all items need to have the same amount of resistance for even coverage. More info on the parallel circuit at the end of this FAQ.
• Each item must either be all connected on the same wire, or suspended individually on a conductive busbar. Do not hang the items too closely to one another, or they will block each other from receiving current.
  
• Amperage settings will be determined by adding up the total amount of surface area to be electroformed at 0.1 amp per square inch of the combined items.

How do I hang multiple designs?
A conductive busbar can serve as the suspension bar, which is positioned across the top of the beaker to support the cathode. This can be constructed using thick gauge copper wire. This option is particularly useful for supporting multiple cathodes, as the entire bar is conductive. To secure the busbar and prevent it from rolling, either use spring clamps on both sides of the beaker or flatten the ends of the metal busbar wire with a hammer.

Maintaining a clean busbar is essential for optimal circuit performance. Corrosion or tarnish forming between the busbar and the suspension wire will create a poor connection. To avoid this, be sure to scrub the busbar clean of any corrosion before each use. When using a metal busbar, do not allow it to touch or intersect with the anode, otherwise it will disrupt the electrical circuit, and the cathode will not electroform. 

I want to upgrade to a larger container/beaker. What can I use?
To accommodate larger designs or multiple items at once, use any container that is thick walled and safe from acid, such as polypropylene (PP, plastic type #5), polyethylene (HDPE, plastic type #2), or glass. Look for either of the following symbols on the bottom:

Can I use the same power supply to electroform in more than one tank?
Yes, there are ways to do this. In a basic single circuit set up, you are using one power supply to one electroforming bath tank. The black/negative lead wire connects to your cathode, and the red/positive lead to your anode, and you can supply up to the maximum amperage, or current that your power supply can provide to that tank. To share the power supply’s current, you can set up a series or a parallel circuit. There are some rules and limitations to follow. This will work on any size power supply.

For example, suppose the desired current setpoint is 3 amps. In a Single set up, the tank gets a maximum of 3 amps. This means that a cathode surface area of 30 square inches  is to be electroformed (0.1 amps per square inch).

In a Series Circuit, EACH tank gets 3 amps. Having three tanks running at 3 amps each will give your combined cathode maximum total at 90 square inches. For this method, you must have similar size/shape cathodes in each tank. In this set up, double ended leads are required, where the first tank’s cathode wire is connected to the second tank’s anode, and so on. (see illustration below)

In a Parallel Circuit, each tank gets a FRACTION of the 3 amps. Three tanks running at 3 amps combined has a cathode maximum total of 30 square inches. For this method, you must have similar size/shape cathodes and anodes, as well as the same batch of solution in each tank. All variables must be the same. In this set up, stacking lead wires are required where the positive and negative input/outputs are shared. (see illustration below).

When batch production of similar sized shape/sized items is needed, using a series circuit can be a huge time saver that will also allow you to stretch your power supply’s potential. Get supplies and see set up photos for a series circuit: EnchantedLeaves.com/Electroforming

How do I dispose of my copper electroforming solution?
If for whatever reason you do not want to keep the solution, do not pour it down the drain. Pouring chemical waste down the sink can contaminate the local water supply and sewer system, posing a significant environmental and health hazard.

Follow the correct procedure for the responsible disposal of the electroforming solution:

First, the solution’s chemistry must be neutralized by carefully adding baking soda/sodium bicarbonate until the reaction (such as fizzing or bubbling) ceases. This step deactivates the corrosive or harmful properties of the chemical.

Once neutralized, the solution must be prepared for professional disposal. To minimize the volume, evaporate out the excess water. This can be done safely, by either gently heating the neutralized solution in a well-ventilated area, or allowing time to evaporate the solution until a concentrated solid or slurry remains. 

The resulting, highly concentrated material must then be securely contained and delivered to your local hazardous waste disposal facility. These facilities are equipped to handle and process chemical waste safely and in compliance with all relevant environmental regulations. 

Need additional help?

Join our online communities for electroforming help & support:
► Cu Electroforming Discord Server
►  Electroforming Help & Support Facebook Group
► Cu Electroforming Help SubReddit